Alan Watts Spends A Couple Hours Talking in a Van—For a Podcast
February 15, 2020
Steven Dimmitt loves to ask questions. Specifically, he loves sitting down with experts in the climbing world and get them to share any habits, routines, and insights or “nuggets” that he and others can learn from in his Nugget Climbing Podcast that he records in his mobile studio. For this particular episode, he got “The Godfather of Smith Rock,” Alan Watts, to talk about: eating every other day, his paradigm shift from freeing aid climbs to face climbing, wearing Wolfgang’s shirt, meeting Adam Ondra, and his “little slice of contribution.”
As we know, Alan’s “little slice of contribution” was to put Smith Rock on the world map as a premier climbing destination when he took to its blank walls with a drill to establish sport climbing in the U.S. in the early to mid-1980s. In the podcast Alan goes into detail about the early days when he felt lost after all his buddies left when the aid routes were freed, to what made him become “laser-focused” and saw the future for American climbing.
Fast forward to his meeting Adam Ondra last year at Smith. After spending three days watching him onsite multiple hard routes in the park, including Just Do It, 5.14c in some very challenging conditions, he describes how moved he was to see what climbing had become since he had taken a hiatus in recent years. And yes, he is spending a lot more time in the park these days, back climbing since he recovered from last year’s hip surgery. Not just climbing, but reconnecting with his community. A community and a sport he feels truly grateful for, one that he “gets back way more than he ever gave.”
We’re not going to spoil the podcast by giving you all the juicy “nuggets.” You’ll have to listen to find out about so much more, including “the freedom of tights,” how Chain Reaction got its name, whether his recurring dream is really the secret of his success, and of course, when his new guidebook of 500 select climbs is coming out. So chill, take a couple hours, and get to know a little bit more about Alan Watts and this place he and so many others are inspired by.
Steven Dimmit, creator of The Nugget Climbing Podcast
Steven’s mobile podcast studio.
ABOUT THE PODCASTER:
"I've always been a curious person. I find myself spending most of my spare time listening to podcasts, reading articles or books, and generally trying to learn from the people I look up to. But nothing is better than sitting down with somebody, asking them questions, and listening to what they have to say.
We live in an amazing time—we have access to more information than ever before. And yet I've found that this can almost be a negative thing. Take in too much information and eventually, it all cancels to zero. I want to learn by engaging in other people's stories. The best part—by using this medium I get to share these amazing stories with anyone who cares to listen.
Smith Rock has been my home for the past seven years, and everything I've accomplished there traces back to what Alan Watts did in the 80s. I wanted to interview Alan because of his contribution to Smith, but also because he is one of the kindest and most welcoming people I've met. He is definitely a hero of mine.
I'm incredibly grateful for this climbing community. I feel like creating the podcast is my way of giving back and making my own contribution. I am so excited for this new chapter. It's the most fun I've ever had."
-Steven Dimmitt