Redpoint Spotlights Author Jeff Smoot and Smith Rock Pioneer Alan Watts: Hangdog Days
October 4, 2022
Local climbers at Smith Rock know Redpoint Climbers Supply as the spot for Coffee, Bear, and Gear. ”Community” should be added to their tagline. With outdoor movie nights and special presentations, such as the one done by the author Jeff Smoot in his book “Hangdog Days: Conflict, Change, and the Race for 5.14,” Redpoint has broadened the confines of their “downtown” store location in Terrebonne. Next up? A climbing competition at Smith Rock State Park. But more to come on that.
Author Jeff Smoot and Smith Rock Pioneer Alan Watts
Author Jeff Smoot and Smith Rock Pioneer Alan Watts teamed up last night to share stories of the painful birth of modern sport climbing that began with rebels like Alan and legendary climber Todd Skinner.
In his book, Jeff tells of the characters he hung around with during the “hangdog days” era—when arguments, fistfights, and even death threats as the “ethics” around what constituted establishing climbing routes were fiercely debated. In Yosemite, climbers had a moral objection to “hangdogging” and bolting on rappels vs the traditional ground-up method. At Smith Rock, Alan realized that the blank faces could be climbed and that the only practical way to protect them was to bolt them on rappel.
Both Jeff and Alan were on the scene at both Smith Rock and Yosemite, and they lent their perspective during the show on the climbing scene of the 1980s, an era often skipped over in stories of climbing history. Thanks to Alan establishing routes in spite of the insults hurled at him, and Jeff spreading the word with publications such as Mountain Magazine that made the news in Europe and elsewhere, Smith Rock has a huge place in history as the birthplace of sport climbing in North America. Popular climbing lore, such as the film “Valley Uprising” often covers the 70s, then skip to the 90s, preferring to avoid the controversial period in between. Not Jeff. He sought to fill the gap with all the material not previously published in his freelance submissions to Rock and Ice, Climbing Magazine, and more. Today’s sport climbers clipping into pre-drilled routes can now challenge themselves to go from the ground up, thanks to Alan’s tenacity and Jeff’s spreading the word. After Alan made the cover of Mountain Magazine in 1986, an explosion of top climbers worldwide descended on Smtih Rock.
But don’t blame them for the crowds at the park today. Climbers only make up 20% of the annual visitors. Most are hikers discovering the beauty of the rock spires, the canyon, and of course, coming to watch the climbers.
A young Alan Watts shows us his rebel side in the early hangdogging days at Smith Rock.
Climbers from all over the world descend on Smith Rock once the word is out.
The grounds of Redpoint provide an intimate outdoor experience with not a bad seat “in the house.”
Jeff Smoot finishes his presentation with a quote from Todd Skinner, mega personality and revered climber to whom he dedicates Hangdog Days.
After the presentation, the festive atmosphere of the evening continued, as young and old gathered around to hear and share stories of the 80s’ climbing at Smith Rock over a combination of beer, cider, and wine over book signings inside the store. Not to mention, one-arm pull-ups.
Jeff Smoot cracks up while signing a stack of books for Redpoint when a local fan starts off an impromptu paparazzi session.
Alan Watts joins the paparazzi session at Redpoint while Jeff pretends not to notice.
Alan Watts and Redpoint owner Kyle Bonfert look on as a climber does a one-arm pull-up.
Alan Watts appears impressed by the ease of the climber’s maneuver, but maybe he just envies the tights.
Jeff has a new book out too, “All and Nothing: Inside Free Soloing,” also available at Redpoint. With an insider’s perspective on free soloing, Jeff examines what motivates people to climb without a rope. We’ll be releasing a story soon.
Pick up a copy of Hangdog Days at Redpoint today. You may just snag an autographed one from the “Paparazzi Session.”
All and Nothing Inside Free Soloing by Jeff Smoot is just out—pick up a copy at Redpoint too.