Yes, September came and went this year, without the signature mega climbing event from the national American Alpine Club (AAC)—the Smith Rock Craggin’ Classic. But don’t despair, the AAC and CAMP USA have a special, week-long digital event series from October 19-25, 2020 with interactive clinics taught by pro climbing athletes, in-depth panel discussions and workshops, films, slideshows, and of course, games and prizes. And what’s amazing is that most of this year’s event is free, with the clinics ($8 for members, $12 for non) and swag as the only things that require payment. You need to register in advance though.
Smith Rock State Park is the birthplace of sport climbing in the U.S when bolting routes took off in the early and mid-1980s on what were previously blank faces. Since then, each decade has seen the proliferation of more routes as new climbers came on the scene and added to the wonderful variety we have seen of grades for a range of climbing skillsets. Fast forward to 2020.
Steven Dimmitt loves to ask questions. Specifically, he loves sitting down with experts in the climbing world and get them to share any habits, routines, and insights or “nuggets” that he and others can learn from in his Nugget Climbing Podcast that he records in his mobile studio. For this particular episode, he got “The Godfather of Smith Rock,” Alan Watts, to talk about: eating every other day, his paradigm shift from freeing aid climbs to face climbing, wearing Wolfgang’s shirt, meeting Adam Ondra, and his “little slice of contribution.”
Chris Hatzai has been featured several times on SmithRock.com, both in a eulogy to friend and fellow route developer, Alex Reed, as well as updates on route development at in the Monument and Marsupials areas of Smith Rock State Park. On a recent trip to the Monument Area he was humbled by those who put Smith Rock on the map as a world-class climbing destination.
Raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting next Saturday, February 1 to August 1, 2020. There is a PARK WIDE ban for drones for the season, and specific area restrictions for climbing and camping detailed below. We’ll keep you posted on Facebook as well as the Seasonal Closures page as the climbing restrictions lift in different areas over the summer.
