2020 Smith Rock Raptor Nesting Season Means No Drones and Restricted Climbing and Camping Starting February 1
AS ALWAYS, BOOKMARK THE SEASONAL CLOSURES PAGE FOR CONTINUOUSLY UPDATED CLOSURES
NOTICE—MAY 14 RAPTOR NESTING CLOSURE UPDATE:
Voyage of the Cowdog is open again, as the falcons are not nesting in that location from what has been observed. However, anyone planning to climb that will need to walk off using Aggro Gully instead of Misery Ridge Trail, which is closed per COVID-19 social distancing trail precautions.
There is a NEW CLOSURE effecting the Smith Rock Group and the King Line. Peregrine Falcons are nesting there and certain routes are closed. See the SEASONAL CLOSURES page for details.
NOTICE—FEB. 18 RAPTOR NESTING CLOSURE UPDATE:
Peregrine Falcons have been observed displaying repeated courtship behavior, specifically in the area of Shiprock and Picnic Lunch Wall. With that, the park will be adding Voyage of the Cowdog to the list of climbing closures this week. Park Rangers have posted closure signs at route access points.
NOTICE— FEB. 3 RAPTOR NESTING CLOSURE UPDATE:
Per dutiful volunteer raptor monitors, Smith Rock State Park management has been made aware that the golden eagle pair have been re-visiting a nest on the Monument tower and adding nesting material to it over the weekend. With this recent observation, park staff will be moving the Monument Area climbing closure ahead of the February 15th date. They will be posting closure signage in the area starting today, but if there is any gear left unattended in the area, please remove it as soon as possible and no later than this weekend.
January 25, 2020
Raptor nesting area closures at Smith Rock State Park are in effect starting next Saturday, February 1 to August 1, 2020 PARK WIDE for drones for the season, selected for climbing and camping. We’ll keep you posted on Facebook as well as the Seasonal Closures page as the restrictions lift in different areas over the summer for climbing.
The drone ban is park wide. Climbing restrictions as noted below.
The Bald Eagles have been flying around actively amongst the crags courting, and possibly mating, according to the several reports. Eagle nesting site closures for climbing routes and camping along the Bivy rim at Smith Rock State Park will go into effect at that time, with detailed route closures by area below. PLEASE NOTE NEW PHOTOGRAPHY RULES.
Falcon nesting site closures for Prairies also start on February 1. These closures are based on last year's nesting sites and could change, as they have these last few years. Normally the closure is February 1-July 31 for Golden eagles in the Monument Area, although this year it’s been pushed to February 15.. The West Side Crags Falcon nesting areas usually reopen by mid-June.
For those of you coming here from out of the area, please note these closures only affect a small number of all the routes in the park, and hiking trails remain open, just not to drones.
Keeping the eggs warm courtesy Jack Wills
BALD EAGLE CAMPGROUND SPOTS CLOSURE:
FEB. 1- AUG. 1
Bivy Campground Canyon Rim tent sites are closed. Look for posted signage in the affected areas. The rest of the campground is open, only a few tent sites are closed along the rim.
Please observe photography rules put in effect recently due to large crowds across from the nesting area on the Bivy Campground Rim:
DOGS ARE NOT PERMITTED ON THE RIM BEHIND THE CLOSURE SIGNS OR WITHIN DIRECT LINE OF SIGHT OF THE RAPTORS.
CHAIRS ARE NOT PERMITTED WITHIN LINE OF SIGHT OF THE NEST. THIS ALSO APPLIES TO OTHER GEAR BESIDES CAMERAS.
TOTAL NUMBER OF PEOPLE AT THE SITE IS LIMITED TO A MAXIMUM OF 7, WITH A MAXIMUM OF 5 CAMERAS SET UP FOR ALL 7 PEOPLE
LET PARK STAFF KNOW AT 541-548-7501 IF YOU OBSERVE VISITORS NOT FOLLOWING THE GROUND RULES.
NO PARKING IN THE CAMPGROUND PARKING LOT. PICKUPS AND DROP OFFS ARE OK IF YOU HAVE SOMEONE WHO CAN STAY WITH THE CAR, ARE NOT TAKING UP A PARKING SPOT, AND NOT BLOCKING TRAFFIC.
TRY TO SCHEDULE YOUR VISIT ON WEEKDAYS OR IN LESS THAN IDEAL WEATHER CONDITIONS.
Please observe the Bald Eagle Courtesy signs along the Canyon Trail. Essentially in the sensitive areas marked, the park is asking the following:
KEEP NOISE TO A MINIMUM
DO NOT LOITER & STAY ON TRAIL
TRAVEL IN GROUPS OF 4 OR LESS
GOLDEN EAGLE CLIMBING CLOSURE:
FEB 15-AUG 1
MONUMENT AREA—Look for the posted climbing closure signs in the Monument Area. Climbing routes, cliffs and gullies within 1100 feet of the nest are closed.
Please refer to 2010 “Rock Climbing Smith Rock State Park” Guide Book by Alan Watts. See pages 244-270. CLOSED routes are numbered 1-44, which includes:
Cajun Cliff
Victoria Tower
Little Three Fingered Jack
Puddy’s Tower,
The Monument
Anglin’s Buttress
French Tent Rock
Staender Ridge and Juniper Spire (The Product) remain OPEN at this time.
Golden Eagle nest at Smith Rock State Park
Drawings courtesy of Alan Watts. Click to enlarge.
PRAIRIE FALCON CLIMBING CLOSURE:
FEB 1- JULY 15
PICNIC LUNCH WALL (above 100 feet) Single pitch routes remain open.
On multi-pitch routes, the first pitch (P1) is open, the second pitch (P2) and above are closed. Please refer to Alan Watts 2010 Smith Rock Guide Book. See pages 57 – 69.
Picnic Lunch Wall, Closed routes are numbered 1-39, partial list, (second pitch and above):Driveway Gravel, P2 and P3
Teddy Bear’s Picnic, P2-P5
Five Easy Pieces, P2-P5
Free Lunch, P2-P5
Picnic Lunch Wall, Open Routes: (first pitch less than 100 feet)Honey Pot, P1
Teddy Bear’s Picnic, P1
Five Easy Pieces
Big R
Starvation Fruit
Bubbas in Bondage
Suicidal Tendencies
Touch
Voyage of the Cow Dog remains OPENFIRST KISS AREA (north of Monkey Face) Please refer to 2010 “Rock Climbing Smith Rock State Park” Guide Book by Alan Watts.
See pages 206, 223-225. CLOSED routes are numbered 41-47 which includes:
First Kiss (#43)
Falcons will defend their nest aggressively. They can be a danger to climbers, and the other way around too.
Drawing courtesy of Alan Watts. Click to enlarge.
Drawing courtesy of Alan Watts. Click to enlarge.
For more information please contact the Park Staff directly at 541-548-7501.