Smith Rock Icons Shine a Spotlight on Bend Rock Gym Historical Exhibit
December 7, 2019
Alan Watts and Mike Volk go way back together, to a very special time in Smith Rock climbing history. When sport climbing challenged established traditional climbing ethics, and Alan Watts became the poster boy challenger at Smith Rock in 1982. Last night at the Bend Rock Gym, Watts and Volk were asked to speak about that time and to bring climbing “artifacts,” or as Watts put it, “Stuff as old as we are.” They were there to bring to life part of the historical climbing panel on Smith Rock of an art installation researched, curated, designed, and built by Geneva Strauss-Wise.
Back in 1984, Volk plays on a slackline while Watts looks on. Courtesy of BRG Exhibit.
Fast forward to December, 2019. Volk and Watts still play together at the Bend Rock Gym.
Watts’ story began with putting up routes all over the park through the practice of “hang dogging,” or drilling permanent protective bolts when establishing routes, descending from a rappel anchor. Volk “aided and abetted the vandal” Watts by providing a nearby home base, in the form of his property across the street.
The “Volk Camp” became a mecca for climbers wanting to do the same, as well as an outdoor training gym and community. The exhibit panel Ethics on the Rock at the Bend Rock Gym details the story of climbing at Smith Rock, starting with the first ascent of Squaw Rock in 1935, through 1986, when it exploded on the international scene when Watts was featured on the cover of Mountain Magazine on Chain Reaction.
Alan Watts hang dogs at Smith Rock—click to enlarge.
J.B. Tribout of France arrives in 1986 at Smith Rock after Watts brings fame to the area—click to enlarge.
Watts shows off his first harness as Volk reacts to the gasps of the crowd.
Watts is a bit incredulous himself when he exhibits his first rope.
While it was tough to hear Watts and Volk even over microphones talk about the “artifacts” on the table before them amidst the party fervor of Member Appreciation Night, they graciously hung out at the table and answered questions one on one for quite a while. That is until the “Ugly Christmas Sweater Contest” participants were called up, and other festivities ensued.
Volk and Watts address questions after the initial presentation.
Volk answers questions at the “artifacts” table.
Climbing elves were en force.
Even the bartenders got into the “Ugly Christmas Sweater” theme.
Next time you’re at the Bend Rock Gym, spend upstairs and some time with the history of Smith Rock, told through photos provided by Watts and Volk on the Ethics on the Rock panel, and be sure to catch the Home-Made panel, all about climbing design in Central Oregon. Nice job Geneva!