It's time for a history lesson. This mega slab of rock with its five spires just to the left of The Dihedrals didn't always have a waiting line.
climbers on the Christian Brothers East Wall at Smith Rock State Park
Starting in the 60s, before "sticky rubber" was even a phrase, the exploration of dirty chimneys, aid and easy free routes marked the humble beginnings of what would become a world renown climbing destination.
Then came the 70s, when crack climbing really took off with the establishment of a series of cracks, including the 5.11b Wartley's Revenge, that became THE route to do at Smith. While a few bolted face climbs such as the 5.9 Revelations were put in, it would take another ten years for the area to explode.
By the mid-80s, Christian Brothers, like The Dihedrals, attracted international attention with routes such as the 5.13c Rude Boys and the 5.14a Scarface. But don't be intimidated. The area has easy stuff too, starting at 5.5.
To get there, take a left at the bridge and follow the River Trail for about .25 miles just past The Dihedrals and just below Asterisk Pass, the boulder that looks like Woodstock from Snoopy comics fame. Like we said earlier, a good climb will be had by all with the wide range of faces and cracks.
Here's just a sampling: (All are rated 3-star in Alan Watts' Guidebook, with * noting a 4-star)
East Wall:
The Brum Wall
5.14:
Chemical Ali 5.14a sport, 10 bolts, 1 pitch
The Prophet Wall
5.11:
Rawhide 5.11d sport, 4 bolts, 1 pitch
Shoes of the Fisherman 5.11b trad, gear to 3 inches, 1 pitch
Wartley's Revenge 5.11a trad, gear to 2.5 inches, 1 pitch
5.12:
Boy Prophet 5.12b sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch
*Dreamin' 5.12a R sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch
5.13:
Choke on This 5.13a sport, 7 bolts, 1 pitch
Rude Boys 5.13c sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch
Rude Femmes 5.13c sport, 11 bolts, 1 pitch
Smooth Boy 5.13b sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch
5.14:
*Scarface 5.14a sport, 13 bolts, 1 pitch
The Beard
5.6:
The Left Side of the Beard trad, gear to 2.5 inches, 1 pitch
The Testament Slab
5.9:
Revelations sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch
5.10:
Irreverence 5.10a sport, 5 bolts, 1 pitch
New Testament 5.10a trad, gear to 2.5 inches, 1 pitch
Barbecue the Pope 5.10b sport, 7 bolts, 1 pitch
5.11:
Blasphemy 5.11a sport, 7 bolts, 1 pitch
Golgotha 5.11b R mixed to 1 inch, 1 pitch
5.12:
Panic Attack 5.12a sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch
Combination Blocks
5.6:
Charlie's Chimney trad, gear to 5 inches, 1 pitch
5.7:
Dancer sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch
5.9:
Tinker Toy 5.9 X trad, gear to 3 inches, 1 pitch
5.10:
Self Preservation Variation 5.10a trad, gear to 2.5 inches, 1 pitch
Earth Boys 5.10b sport, 7 bolts, 1 pitch
Hesitation Blues 5.10b mixed to 2 inches, 1 pitch
5.11:
Overnight Sensation 5.11a sport, 5 bolts, 1 pitch
Ring of Fire 5.11d sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch
5.12:
That .10d 5.12a sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch
5.13:
Double Stain 5.13a mixed to 1 inch, 1 pitch
climbing areas
