This massive formation of tall colorful spires and cliffs that stretch from the base of Asterisk Pass and around the Southern Tip of the park are home to some of the biggest walls at Smith.


Known for its long free routes, the Smith Rock Group is where trad, sport, and big wall climbing all come together.

Couple that with an opportunity to get away from the crowds and the mid-day sun at The Dihedrals.

You get to experience multi-pitch fun with shorter wait times.

Except for Phoenix, that is.

A bit of a walk, go left at the bridge on the River Trail .58 miles to arrive at Phoenix Buttress, a solid reddish-purple mass.

climber on the Phoenix Block of the Smith Rock Group at Smith Rock State Park

climber on the Phoenix Block of the Smith Rock Group at Smith Rock State Park

From sport to trad, 1 pitch to 8, check these out: (All are rated 3-star in Alan Watts' Guidebook, with * noting a 4-star)

Northeast Face


5.7:

  • Sky Chimney   trad, gear to 3 inches, 3 pitches
     

5.8:

  • Sky Ridge R  mixed to 2.5 inches, 2 pitches
     

5.9:

  • White Satin  trad, gear to 3 inches, 3 pitches
     

5.10:

  • Lost in Space 5.10b sport, 10 bolts, 4 pitches

  • Lycra 5.10b  sport, 10 bolts, 1 pitch

  • *White Lycra 5/10b  mixed to 3 inches, 1 pitch

  • Sky Dive 5.10c  sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch
     

5.11:

  • Destiny Unbound 5.11b  sport, 12 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Evolution Theory 5.11b  mixed to 3 inches, 4 pitches

  • Season's Change 5.11b  sport, 12 bolts, 6 pitches

  • Kevin's Arête (aka Cheap Polyester) 5.11c  sport, 14 bolts, 2 pitches

The Pinnacles


The Platform


5.10:

  • Snibble Tower 5.10a A1 R  trad, clean to 3 inches, 6 pitches
     

5.11:

  • Farewell to Smith 5.11a  trad, gear to 3.5 inches, 2 pitches

  • *Good Ol' Variation 5.11b  sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch

  • The Good Ol' Days 5.11c  mixed to 3 inches, 6 pitches
     

5.12:

  • *Freedom's Just Another Word for Nothing Left to Lose 5.12b  mixed to 3 inches, 6 pitches

East Wall


5.10:

  • Dyer's Eve 5.10d  trad, gear to 2 inches, 1 pitch
     

5.11:

  • *European Vacation 5.11a R  mixed to 4 inches, 8 pitches

  • The Struggle Within 5.11d  sport, 11 bolts, 4 pitches
     

5.12:

  • No Vacation 5.12a  (optional gear to 1 inch), 9 bolts, 2 pitches

Smith Summit Crag


5.11:

  • The Struggle Within original start 5.11a  sport, 13 bolts, 1 pitch

  • *American Nirvana 5.11c  mixed to 1 inch, 1 pitch

  • Eye of the Beholder 5.11c  sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Blackened 5.11d  sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Harvester of Sorrow 5.11d  sport, 14 bolts, 1 pitch
     

5.13:

  • Livin' Large 5.13a  sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch

  • 100% Beef 5.13c  sport, 5 bolts, 1 pitch

Phoenix Buttress


5.8:

  • Scary Llamas (aka Hissing Llamas)  sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch
     

5.10:

  • Phoenix 5.10a  sport, 5 bolts, 1 pitch

  • *Jim Treviso Memorial Route (aka JT's Route)  5.10b  sport, 7 bolts, 1 pitch
     

5.11:

  • License To Bolt 5.11c  sport, 5 bolts, 1 pitch

Southern Tip


5.10:

  • *Kunza Korner 5.10c  trad, gear up to 2 inches, 1 pitch
     

5.11:

  • Sabotage 5.11c  sport, 10 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Wave of Bliss 5.11dR  mixed to 3 inches, 1 pitch
     

5.12:

  • South Park 5.12a  sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch

West Side Routes


Northwest Wall


5.5:

  • Bits and Pieces start  sport, 5 bolts, 1 pitch

  • My Little Pony  sport, 5 bolts, 1 pitch
     

5.8:

  • Chalk Wave  sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch
     

5.9:

  • Stained  sport, 7 bolts, 1 pitch

  • *Sunset Slab  sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch

  • *Wherever I May Roam  sport, 10 bolts, 5 pitches
     

5.10:

  • The Unforgiven Variation 5.10b  sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch

  • The Unforgiven 5.10d  sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Thieves Like Us 5.10d  sport, 10 bolts, 1 pitch
     

5.11:

  • Role Model 5.11a R  mixed to 3.5 inches, 1 pitch
     

5.12:

  • Tears of Rage 5.12b  mixed to 2 inches, 9 bolts, 4 pitches

Cod Rock


5.10:

  • Butterknife Arête 5.10c  sport, 10 bolts, 1 pitch

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