The spectacular accordion of sheer rock faces known as The Dihedrals immortalized Smith Rock State Park as the foundation for sport climbing of the country.


Prior to the early to mid 80s, climbing here was limited to scattered cracks and easy faces. Once Alan Watts, who literally wrote the book on Smith, tapped into the untouched faces and arêtes, he found reams of usable holds. Smith then burst onto the international climbing scene with the first free ascent by French climber Jean Baptiste Tribout on To Bolt or Not to Be, the first 5.14 in the U.S. 

Karate-Crack-dihedralssmithrockstatepark.png

climber on Karate Crack in the Dihedrals at Smith Rock State Park

Follow the River Trail left of the bridge for .25 miles. Look for the compost toilet strategically placed to serve this extremely popular area and hang a left once you get up to the base just past Morning Glory Wall. With over 60 amazing sport and trad climbs from 5.5 to 5.14, no wonder it gets crowded.

climber on Chain Reaction in the Dihedrals at Smith Rock State Park
climber on Chain Reaction in the Dihedrals at Smith Rock State Park

Help out the situation and limit your climbing party size to give everyone a chance to jump on some of these favorites: (All are rated 3-star in Alan Watts' Guidebook, with * noting a 4-star rating)

5.5:

  • NIght Flight  sport, 7 bolts, 1 pitch
     

5.6:

  • Easy Reader  sport, 5 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Rattlesnake Chimney  trad, 1 pitch, 175'

  • Cinnamon Slab  trad, gear to 3.5 inches, 2 pitches


5.7:

  • Bunny Face  sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Bookworm  mixed to 3.5 inches, 2 pitches


5.8:

  • Lichen It  sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Ginger Snap  sport, 4 bolts, 1 pitch


5.9:

  • Helium Woman  sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Ancylostoma  sport, 1 pitch

  • *Moonshine Dihedral  trad, gear to 2 inches, 1 pitch

  • Cry Baby  sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch


5.10:

  • Karate Crack 5.10a  trad, gear to 3 inches, 1 pitch

  • Wedding Day 5.10b  sport, 7 bolts, 1 pitch


5.11:

  • Fresh Squeezed 5.11a  sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch

  • *Karot Tots 5.11b  mixed to 2.5 inches, 2 pitches

  • Middle Aged Vandal 5.11c  sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Moondance 5.11c  sport, 11 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Slow Burn 5.11d R  mixed to 4 inches, 1 pitch


5.12:

  • Heinous Cling Start 5.12a  sport, 5 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Latin Lover 5.12a  sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch

  • *Sunshine Dihedral 5.12amixed to 1 inch, 2 pitches

  • Take a Powder 5.12a  sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch

  • *Power Drive 5.12a R  mixed to 3.5 inches, 1 pitch

  • *Crossfire 5.12b  mixed, to 4 inches, 1 pitch

  • Firing Line 5.12b  sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Kilo Watts 5.12b  sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch

  • *Latest Rage 5.12b  sport, 4 bolts, 1 pitch

  • *Watts Tots 5.12b  sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Vision 5.12b  sport, 7 bolts, 1 pitch

  • *Chain Reaction  5.12c  sport, 4 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Darkness at Noon 5.12c  sport, 5 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Go Dog Go 5.12c  sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch

  • *Last Waltz 5.12c  sport, 11 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Powder in the Eyes 5.12c  sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch

  • *Karate Wall 5.12c R  sport, 11 bolts, 1 pitch

  • *Heinous Cling 5.12c R  sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Last Waltz Direct 5.12c R  sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Low Profile 5.12c R  mixed to 1.5 inches, 1 pitch

  • *Monster Rage 5.12d R  mixed to 3.5 inches, 1 pitch


5.13:

  • *Darkness at Noon 5.13a  sport, 10 bolts, 1 pitch

  • *French Connection 5.13b  mixed to 1 inch, 1 pitch

  • Mega Watts 5.13b  TR, 1 pitch


5.14:

  • Little Miss Sunshine 5.14a  sport 11 bolts, 1 pitch

  • *To Bolt Or Not To Be 5.14a  sport, 14 bolts, 1 pitch

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