Love variety? From easy to extreme, kick back on some 5.8s on The Peanut and the Fourth Horseman or go crank on a cluster of 5.12s and 13s on Churning Buttress.
They are just three of the six areas that comprise the Morning Glory Wall. It butts up to Cocaine Gully on its left side. Head left at the bridge and then peel off of the River Trail as you just pass Shiprock. Look up for the composting toilet and follow the stairs to the base of the wall. Not hard to spot, this excellent 350 foot wall of rock is a magnet for climbers near and far.
Coming in the late spring or summer? You might want to wait for the rock to cool off in the early evening. The sunlit wall can easily soak up an additional 10 degrees over air temperature.
climbers on Five Gallon Buckets on Morning Glory Wall at Smith Rock State Park
climber waiting to get on the Peanut on Morning Glory Wall at Smith Rock State Park
Ready to rock? We thought so.Here are some suggestions: (All are rated 3 star in Alan Watts' Guidebook, with * noting a 4 star)
Rolling Stones Wall
5.11:
Exile on Main Street 5.11a sport, 5 bolts, 1 pitch
Cocaine Gully-Upper Left Wall
5.11:
*Bloodshot 5.11b sport, 11 bolts, 1 pitch
5.12:
Quest to Fire 5.12a sport, 7 bolts, 1 pitch
Crack Babies 5.12b sport, 5 bolts, 1 pitch
5.13:
RUnt 5.13d sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch
Churning Buttress
5.12:
Cool Ranch Flavor finish 5.12a sport, 10 bolts, 1 pitch
*Da Kine Corner 5.12c sport, 4 bolts, 1 pitch
Doritos 5.12c sport, 10 bolts, 1 pitch
*Kings of Rap 5.12d sport, 11 bolts, 1 pitch
5.13:
*Churning in the Wake 5.13a sport, 7 bolts, 1 pitch
*Churning Sky 5.13a sport, 13 bolts, 1 pitch
Taco Chips 5.13a sport, 10 bolts, 1 pitch
Churning in the Ozone 5.13b sport, 15 bolts, 1 pitch
Oxygen 5.13bsport, 5 bolts, 1 pitch
Signs of the Times 5.13b sport, 11 bolts, 1 pitch
*Waste Case 5.13b sport, 10 bolts, 1 pitch
Mr. Tapeworm 5.13c sport, 14 bolts, 1 pitch
White Heat 5.13c sport, 5 bolts, 1 pitch
*Vicious Fish 5.13c sport, 10 bolts, 1 pitch
Overboard Area
5.10:
Nine Gallon Buckets start 5.10a sport, 4 bolts, 1 pitch
Nine Gallon Buckets 5.10c sport, 12 bolts, 1 pitch
Lion's Chair start 5.10c mixed to 1 inch, 1 pitch
5.11:
Lion's Chair 5.11a R mixed to 3 1/2 inches, 1 pitch
Magic Light 5.11asport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch
Overboard 5.11c sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch
Overboard extension 5.11d sport, 12 bolts, 1 pitch
5.12:
Magic Light Extension 5.12a sport, 14 bolts, 1 pitch
Energy Crisis 5.12b sport, 7 bolts, 1 pitch
Sketch Pad 5.12d sport, 15 bolts, 1 pitch
5.13:
Mane Line 5.13a sport, 15 bolts, 1 pitch
Zebra Area
5.8:
Five Gallon Buckets sport, 7 bolts, 1 pitch
Lion's Jaw trad, gear to 2.5 inches, 1 pitch
5.9:
The Outsiders sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch
5.10:
Light on the Path 5.10a sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch
Zebra 5.10a mixed to 3 inches, 5 bolts, 3 pitches
*Zion (alt. 3rd pitch of Zebra) 5.10a trad, 4 pitches
Gumby 5.10bsport, 5 bolts, 1 pitch
*Lion Zion 5.10c sport, 14 bolts, 1 pitch
Morning Sky 5.10c sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch
5.11:
Zebra Direct 5.11a sport, 4 bolts, 1 pitch
Zebra Seam 5.11d sport. 8 bolts, 1 pitch
CAT Scan 5.11d sport, 18 bolts, 1 pitch
5.12:
Choss in America 5.12 sport, 13 bolts, 1 pitch
The Peanut
5.8:
Hop on Pop sport, 7 bolts, 1 pitch
Peanut Brittle sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch
5.10:
Pop Goes the Nubbin 5.10asport, 7 bolts, 1 pitch
The Fourth Horseman
5.7:
Friday's Jinx R trad, gear to 2 inches, 2 pitches
5.8:
Pack Animal R trad, gear to 2.5 inches, 1 pitch
5.9:
Snuffy Smith sport, 1 pitch, 80'
5.10:
Crack of Infinity 5.10b trad, gear to 3 inches, 3 pitches
*Pack Animal Direct 5.10b trad, gear to 1 inch, 1 pitch
*Calamity Jam 5.10c trad, gear to 2 inches, 1 pitch
Taiwan On 5.10c sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch
Wielded Tuff 5.10c TR, 1 pitch
Headless Horseman 5.10d sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch
5.11:
John Galt Line 5.11b sport, 10 bolts, 1 pitch
5.12:
Catastrophic Crack 5.12a R trad, gear to 2 inches, 1 pitch